Allspice: What It Is, How to Use It and Substitutes
What is allspice?
The allspice tree (Pimenta dioica) belongs to the myrtle family and grows in Central America and on the Caribbean islands. Jamaica is the classic source, and large quantities now also come from Mexico and Central America. The berries are picked green and unripe, then dried in the sun until they are reddish brown and hard. Each berry is slightly larger than a peppercorn and holds two seeds. The aroma sits mainly in the shell and comes largely from eugenol, the same compound that gives cloves their character. In the 16th century, Spanish sailors took the berries for a kind of pepper and called them pimienta. Allspice has nothing to do with paprika or pimentón, although the names are often confused.
Flavour and uses
Allspice tastes warm, spicy and slightly hot, with a clear note of clove. In Jamaica it is, along with Scotch bonnet chilli and thyme, the basis of jerk marinade, as in Caribbean jerk chicken. There it also seasons rice and peas and bean soups. In Germany, whole berries go into the marinade for Sauerbraten, into pickled herring and into braised red cabbage. Ground, it is part of gingerbread spice and spiced speculaas biscuits. Scandinavian cooks use it in meatballs and liver pâté, and in the USA it is part of Cincinnati chili. Whole berries are cooked with the dish and removed before serving. Three or four berries are enough for a pot of red cabbage. Ground allspice is stronger, and a pinch is usually enough.
Buying allspice: what to look for
Allspice is sold in most supermarket spice aisles, either as whole berries or ground. Choose whole berries where you can. They keep their aroma much longer, and you can grind them fresh in a mortar or spice grinder when you need them. Good berries are an even dark brown, round, and smell strongly as soon as you open the packet. Larger quantities are good value at Caribbean, African and Asian grocers, where allspice is sometimes sold as pimento.
Storage and shelf life
Whole allspice berries keep for two to three years in an airtight container away from light. Ground allspice loses much of its fragrance within a few months. Rub a berry between your fingers. If it barely smells of clove any more, it is too old and should be thrown away.
What can you use instead of allspice?
For 1 tsp ground allspice, mix ½ tsp ground cinnamon, ¼ tsp ground cloves and ¼ tsp grated nutmeg. If you like it more peppery, add a pinch of black pepper. In marinades, replace each whole berry with one clove and one peppercorn. Cloves are stronger, so use slightly fewer.
