Tofu: What It Is, How to Use It and Substitutes
What is tofu?
To make tofu, soya beans are soaked, ground with water and boiled. The filtered soya milk is then mixed with a coagulant, traditionally nigari, which is magnesium chloride from seawater, or calcium sulphate. The protein curdles, much as in cheesemaking, and is pressed into moulds. The longer and harder it is pressed, the firmer the tofu. Silken tofu is not pressed at all. It sets directly in the pack and is as soft as a set custard. A Chinese legend credits its invention to a prince of the Han period. There is no proof of this. What is certain is that tofu has been eaten in China for many centuries. From there it spread to Japan, Korea and South East Asia.
Flavour and uses
Plain tofu tastes mild and slightly of beans, almost neutral. It needs seasoning. Firm tofu is good for frying, deep-frying and grilling. Press it first for 20 minutes between kitchen towels under a board, and it will turn out crisper. In Sichuan soft tofu is braised with minced meat and chilli bean paste to make Mapo Tofu. In Japan cubes of tofu are dusted with starch, deep-fried and served in hot dashi as Agedashi Tofu. In Singapore fried tofu blocks are filled with cucumber and bean sprouts and topped with peanut sauce, which is Tahu Goreng. Silken tofu suits soups, smoothies and desserts.
Buying tofu: what to look for
You can get tofu in the chiller cabinet of most supermarkets, along with smoked and marinated kinds. Asian grocers have a wider range, including fresh tofu in water, silken tofu in unchilled cartons, fried tofu puffs and dried tofu skin. Organic tofu is made from non-GM soya beans. Check whether the pack says firm, plain or silken, depending on the recipe. Soft tofu falls apart in the pan.
Storage and shelf life
Unopened, tofu keeps until its best-before date. Put opened tofu in a container of cold water, change the water every day and use it within three to four days. If it smells sour or turns slimy, throw it away. Firm tofu can be frozen. Afterwards it is spongier and soaks up marinades even better.
What can you use instead of tofu?
Instead of 200 g firm tofu you can use 200 g tempeh, which tastes nuttier and has more bite. The same amount of seitan replaces tofu in stir-fries, but it contains gluten. If you eat dairy, paneer or halloumi work for fried cubes, in which case use a little less salt. Replace silken tofu in desserts with the same amount of plain yoghurt or quark.
