National Dish Fiji: Kokoda (Recipe)
In this article
Kokoda is raw fish cured in lime juice and then dressed in coconut cream. It is pronounced ko-kon-da. The lime does the cooking, the coconut takes the edge off, and the whole thing takes about twenty minutes.
About Kokoda
Kokoda is Fiji’s national dish and belongs to the Pacific family of lime-cured fish that includes Tahitian poisson cru and Samoan oka. The distinguishing element is the coconut cream, which turns a sharp ceviche into something rounder and richer.
Freshness is not negotiable. This is raw fish, and the lime cure firms the flesh without making it safe in the way heat would.
Ingredients (serves 1–2)
- 200g fresh fish fillet (e.g. mahi-mahi, wahoo or snapper), cut into cubes
- Juice of 2–3 limes
- 1 cup coconut milk
- 1 small red onion, finely diced
- 1 tomato, deseeded and diced
- 1 green chilli, finely chopped (optional)
- ½ cucumber, peeled and diced
- Salt and pepper, to taste
- A few sprigs of coriander, to garnish
Shopping for the ingredients
Buy fish you would be happy to eat as sashimi, from a fishmonger you trust, on the day. Firm white fish holds up; oily fish does not. Fresh coconut cream, pressed from grated flesh, is what Fiji uses and is markedly better than tinned, though tinned works.
Preparing the dish
Cut the fish into even cubes of about 1.5 cm so it cures at the same rate. Deseed the tomato, or the salad goes watery. Dice everything small: kokoda is eaten with a spoon and every mouthful should have some of each thing.
Step-by-step instructions
- Pour the lime juice over the fish in a bowl so all the pieces are submerged. Cover and leave to marinate in the fridge for about 15–30 minutes.
- Drain the marinated fish and tip away any excess lime juice.
- In a separate bowl, combine the red onion, tomato, chilli and cucumber.
- Add the marinated fish to the vegetables and fold everything together gently.
- Pour in the coconut milk and stir until well combined.
- Season to taste with salt and pepper.
- Chill once more before serving so the flavours can develop fully.
Gluten-free / lactose-free version
Kokoda contains no gluten and no dairy, since coconut does the enriching. It needs no adaptation for either restriction.
Tips for vegans and vegetarians
Hearts of palm cured in lime take the coconut dressing surprisingly well and are the standard vegan substitute across the Pacific. Green mango or young jackfruit also work. Grilled tofu with tamarind is the Indo-Fijian alternative.
More tips and tricks
Do not over-cure. Fifteen to thirty minutes is right; leave the fish in lime for hours and it goes chalky and tough. Drain the lime juice before the coconut goes in, or the acid splits the cream. And keep everything cold from start to serving.
Adapting the recipe to your taste
Spring onion and capsicum are common additions. More chilli suits it. Some cooks add a little of the lime juice back at the end for sharpness, which is worth doing to taste.
Ingredient substitutions
Any firm white fish works, and prawns are good. Lemon in place of lime is acceptable but less bright. Coconut cream gives a richer result than coconut milk.
Drink pairing ideas
Fresh coconut water is the island pairing. Fiji Bitter is the local lager. A crisp Sauvignon Blanc works at a table.
Serving and presentation ideas
Serve it cold in a coconut shell or a small bowl, garnished with coriander, with taro or cassava crisps to scoop. It is a starter or a light lunch rather than a main course, and it does not keep.
A bit of history
Lime-cured raw fish is Polynesian and Melanesian rather than an import, and versions run across the Pacific from Fiji to Tahiti to Hawaii. Coconut cream is what marks the Fijian version. It sits at the centre of Fijian cuisine alongside the earth-oven lovo cooking that handles everything else.
More recipe ideas
- Ceviche
- Coconut Fish
- Grilled Coconut Marinated Fish
- Lime Marinated Octopus
- Mango and Lime Ceviche
- Seafood Kokoda
Summary: Kokoda
Kokoda is raw fish cured briefly in lime, drained, then folded with coconut cream, onion, tomato and cucumber. Buy sashimi-grade fish, cure it no longer than half an hour, and serve it cold.
