National Dish Monaco: Barbagiuan (Recipe)
In this article
Barbagiuan is a fried pastry parcel filled with chard, ricotta and rice, and it is Monaco’s national dish. The name means Uncle John in Monégasque. They are made for the national holiday on 19 November and sold from bakeries year round.
About Barbagiuan
The filling is Ligurian in character: blette, chard, is the standard green, mixed with ricotta or a local cheese, rice, onion and parmesan. The pastry is a simple olive oil dough rolled thin, and the parcels are fried rather than baked.
Monaco is 2 square kilometres and its cooking is essentially that of the Ligurian coast, shared with Nice and Ventimiglia.
Ingredients (serves 1–2)
- 100g spinach
- 50g cooked rice
- 50g grated Parmesan
- 1 egg
- 1 shallot
- 1 clove of garlic
- 150g plain flour
- Olive oil, for frying
- Salt and pepper, to taste
- A squeeze of lemon juice
Shopping for the ingredients
Chard is the traditional green and has more character than spinach; use it if you can find it, stalks and all. Ricotta alongside the parmesan gives the right texture. A good olive oil, since the dough is made with it and you will taste it.
Preparing the dish
Wilt and squeeze the greens thoroughly. Wet filling is what makes barbagiuan burst in the oil. Rest the dough thirty minutes so it rolls thin without springing back.
Step-by-step instructions
- Sauté the spinach in a pan with a little olive oil until it wilts. Leave to cool, squeeze out all the water, then chop finely.
- In a bowl, combine the spinach, cooked rice, grated Parmesan, chopped shallot and garlic, and the egg. Season with salt, pepper and lemon juice.
- Knead a dough from the flour, a tablespoon of olive oil and a little water until smooth and elastic; rest it 30 minutes.
- Roll it out thinly and cut into small rounds.
- Place a spoonful of filling on each round, fold the dough over and press the edges together firmly to seal.
- Fry the parcels in hot olive oil until golden brown, then drain on kitchen paper.
Gluten-free / lactose-free version
A gluten-free pastry blend works, though it seals less reliably. Lactose-free is harder since the cheese is central; a firm plant ricotta and nutritional yeast in place of parmesan give a workable version.
Tips for vegans and vegetarians
Barbagiuan is vegetarian as written. For vegan, replace the egg with a spoonful of chickpea flour and use plant cheese. The chard, rice and onion carry most of the flavour.
More tips and tricks
Squeeze the greens until they seem too dry, then squeeze again. Seal the edges firmly and crimp them with a fork. And fry at a moderate 170°C, since a hot pan browns the pastry before the filling heats through.
Adapting the recipe to your taste
Leek and pumpkin fillings appear in some versions. Baking rather than frying is a lighter modern option. A little nutmeg in the filling is common and suits the chard.
Ingredient substitutions
Chard, spinach and beet tops are interchangeable. Ricotta or brousse, the local fresh cheese, in place of some of the parmesan. Puff pastry is a shortcut that changes the character.
Drink pairing ideas
A Provençal rosé or a Ligurian white such as Vermentino. A local pastis before the meal. Sparkling water with lemon.
Serving and presentation ideas
Serve them warm as an aperitif or a starter, piled on a plate. They are eaten with the fingers and go with a glass of something cold. On the national day they are handed out in the street.
A bit of history
Monaco has been ruled by the Grimaldi family since 1297 and its language, Monégasque, is a Ligurian dialect. The cooking follows the language rather than the border with France, which is why barbagiuan looks so much like a Niçoise or Genoese pastry. It anchors Monégasque cuisine alongside socca and pissaladière.
More recipe ideas
Summary: Barbagiuan
Barbagiuan are fried pastry parcels filled with chard, ricotta, rice and parmesan. Squeeze the greens completely dry, seal the edges firmly, and fry at a moderate heat.
