Portugal By Food Enthusiasts · 5 min read

National Dish Portugal: Espetada de Lulas (Recipe)

Grilled squid skewers with herbs and lemon wedges on a wooden board

In this article

Meet Espetada de Lulas, Portugal’s celebration of the sea on a skewer. Tender squid is marinated in garlic, olive oil and bright citrus, then charred over the grill until smoky and just-cooked. It carries the salt-air flavours of the Atlantic coast straight to your table, and it is made for sharing — equally at home at a lively dinner party or a relaxed evening with friends. Fire up the grill and bring a taste of the Portuguese shoreline to your own kitchen.

About Espetada de Lulas

Espetada de Lulas is a traditional Portuguese dish that puts squid skewers firmly in the spotlight. Especially popular along the Portuguese coast and out in the islands, it brings the flavours of the Atlantic right to the plate. The combination of juicy squid, a fragrant marinade and that unmistakable grilled aroma turns this dish into a feast for the senses. Made for sharing, it is perfect for sociable dinner parties or an easy-going supper with company.

Ingredients (serves 1–2)

300 g fresh squid (such as rings or bodies)
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
50 ml olive oil
1 lemon, juice and zest
A bunch of fresh herbs (parsley, oregano or thyme)
Salt and pepper, to taste
Wooden or metal skewers

Shopping for the ingredients

When shopping for the ingredients for espetada de lulas, choosing fresh squid is what makes all the difference. Head to a good fishmonger or a reliable supermarket to secure the best quality. Look for squid that appears glossy and smells fresh and clean rather than overly fishy. A handful of fresh herbs is essential too, lifting and rounding out the flavour of the finished dish.

Preparing the dish

To prepare espetada de lulas, start with the marinade. Combine the garlic, olive oil, lemon juice and chopped herbs in a bowl. The squid should be coated evenly so it can take on all the flavours. Leave the mixture to rest for at least 30 minutes, giving the aromas time to develop and infuse the seafood properly.

Step-by-step instructions

Cut the marinated squid into evenly sized pieces and thread them onto the skewers.
Heat the grill to a medium temperature, or warm up a griddle pan.
Lay the skewers on the grill and cook for about 4–5 minutes per side, until the squid is tender and lightly browned.
Drizzle with a little fresh lemon juice and garnish with extra herbs to taste.
Serve the espetada de lulas with fresh bread or a crisp salad.

Gluten-free / lactose-free version

Espetada de Lulas is easy to make gluten-free and lactose-free. Every ingredient in the marinade is naturally free of gluten and contains no lactose. Simply make sure you avoid serving it with bread that contains gluten. That makes this preparation ideal for anyone with a sensitive digestion or food allergies, with no compromise on flavour.

Tips for vegans and vegetarians

While espetada de lulas is traditionally made with squid, there are plenty of creative ways to build a vegan and vegetarian version. In place of squid, try marinated tofu or vegetables such as peppers, courgettes and aubergines. These alternatives soak up the marinade beautifully and deliver a similar grilled pleasure. Experiment with different herbs and spices to coax out the fullest flavour.

More tips and tricks

One key tip for grilling is to lean into the smoky flavour. Use wood chips to give the squid a gentle, smoky character on the grill. Soaking wooden skewers in water beforehand stops them scorching over the heat. You can also lay fresh herbs directly on the grill to intensify the aromas and create a pretty garnish at the same time.

Adapting the recipe to your taste

Espetada de lulas leaves plenty of room for personal preference. Tailor the marinade to your liking by swapping in different oils or vinegars. The choice of herbs can vary too, giving the dish its own signature. For a little heat, add chilli or extra pepper to bring an additional kick to every skewer.

Ingredient substitutions

If you cannot find fresh squid, frozen squid works well too — just thaw it fully and pat it dry to get the best texture. Olive oil can be replaced with other oils such as avocado or coconut oil for a different flavour profile. The fresh herbs can likewise be swapped for dried, though go carefully, as dried herbs are far more concentrated. For another taste of the coast, the same approach suits a Polvo Guisado or an Arroz de Polvo.

Drink pairing ideas

A glass of wine pairs wonderfully with espetada de lulas, particularly a fresh, fruity white or a rosé. These echo the flavours of the sea and the marinade perfectly. A lively sangria or a cold beer also harmonises nicely. For an alcohol-free option, reach for a flavoured sparkling water or a freshly squeezed citrus juice.

Serving and presentation ideas

Presentation can make all the difference to the espetada de lulas experience. Serve the skewers on a rustic wooden board or small plates, garnished with fresh herbs and lemon wedges. A colourful side of salad or seasonal vegetables makes the dish visually appealing. A little creativity in the arrangement and garnish can lift the whole meal.

A bit of history

Espetada de Lulas has its roots in Portugal’s maritime culture, where squid has long been a staple. Traditionally the dish was cooked over an open fire, which gives it its distinctive character. Over the centuries the recipe has evolved and now appears in countless variations on restaurant menus and at gatherings. The influence of Portuguese cuisine and its Mediterranean leanings is clear in the use of fresh herbs and good-quality oils, much as you find in classics like Caldeirada de Peixe.

More recipe ideas

Summary: Espetada de Lulas

Espetada de lulas is a delicious and versatile dish that embodies the flavours of the Atlantic Ocean. The combination of fresh squid, a fragrant marinade and that grilled finish makes it a genuine highlight of any meal. Whether for a celebration or a relaxed supper, this dish is sure to impress your guests. Enjoy the craft of the preparation and experiment with different ingredients to create a masterpiece all your own.